Eating well in Venice

Venice may not have reputation as one of Italy’s culinary hot spots. True, the proliferation of by-the-slice pizza joints and fixed-price tourist menus is astounding. But by digging deeper and choosing restaurants off the tourist trail you can find some authentic, reasonably priced gems.

One of Venice’s great gastro gifts is cicchetti, or tapas-like morsels and crostini that are washed down with local wine in a tradition called the ombra, or appertivo. You’ll find these displayed on the counters of many bars, usually making their appearance mid-morning and mid-afternoon (the bars in the back streets around the Rialto Market are a good place to look).

From the lagoon, seafood and fish is another one, and prawns, octopus and squid can generally be considered local. Again, the restaurants and bars around the Rialto’s Pescheria (fish market) are a good bet for seafood. In fact choose whatever you have seen in abundance at the market that day as its bound to be fresh.

A handful of Venice’s other islands have small agricultural industries, as does the rest of the Veneto. By knowing what’s in season, it’s difficult to gone wrong with a plate of simply prepared vegetables. Watch out for the radicchio di Treviso, a bitter, purple endive that makes its appearance around late autumn (an event celebrated in Treviso by blanketing the town’s main piazza with the vegetable) and artichokes and white asparagus in spring.

By doing a little homework on local ingredients, then choosing a simply-prepared dish such as grilled vegetables and fish or a risotto, you can certainly eat well in Venice. Wine of course is good all over Italy, Venice included. But whilst here choose a local variety, such as a crisp, white soave white or cherry-flavoured bardolino red.

Venice’s ‘other’ Biennale

Most people are aware of the Venice Biennale, the fantastic contemporary art exhibition that every two years showcases representative artists from countries all over the world. But not many people are aware that on the years it doesn’t take place, the city hosts another Biennale dedicated to architecture. Like the main mostra della arte, the Architecture Biennale (this year from August 29th to November 21st) takes place in the Giardini della Biennale, the gardens to the east of the Piazza San Marco that have hosted the event since 1895. Dotted throughout the gardens are 29 international pavilions, each created by a native architect. For some, these wonderful examples of vernacular architecture in miniature are reason enough to come; the Austrian Pavilion, for example, was one of the last works by Josef Hoffmann, a leading figure of the Secessionist movement, whist the Finnish Pavilion was designed by of the ‘father of modernism’ Alvar Aalto. This year, the 12th International Architecture Exhibition goes under the title ‘People Meet in Architecture’ and one of its major projects is ‘Architecture Saturdays’; a series of conversations, led by former curators of the mostra and between architects and critics. The Italian Pavilion, the largest in the giardini, will host a show titled ‘Reflections from the Future’, which will look at the way contemporary Italian architects understand the country’s historical context.

Giudecca: Venice’s Least Visited Island

It’s not that easy to escape the hoards in Venice. Popular areas, such the Rialto, Piazza San Marco, the Arsenal and around the Academia are pretty much perpetually thronged, at least during the daylight hours. But there is one haven of peace that’s not too far away.

The skinny, worm-shaped island of Giudecca is only a short vaporetto ride from San Marco (the nucleus of Venice) but world’s away in atmosphere. It was traditionally Venice’s ‘industrial belt’, if you can call artisan fishing and boat making ‘industrial’. Other factories, such as those that belonged to the prestigious watch firm Junghans and Fortuny, the luxury fabric manufacturer have long since gone and the northern side of the island is peppered with more abandoned warehouses and workshops.

The southern side, where the riches of San Marco glisten in the distance, is a little better kept, especially around the enclosed, manicured grounds of the famous hotel the Cipriani. The other two note-worthy sites on Giudecca are the Zitelle and the Redentore, two churches built by Palladio.

But I wouldn’t recommend that you come across to the island for these alone. If, like me, you like to see the more work-a-day side of any city then I would suggest that you take an hour or so simply walking around the island, perhaps stopping to have a drink or coffee in one of its working-class hosterias along the fondmenta. You won’t see any grand palazzi or churches (bar the ones I have just mentioned) but instead local Venetians go about their business in non-alarming streets. For me, this takes the myth out of Venice, and makes it all the more endearing.

Two Day Trips from Venice

Although Venice and its many islands has enough attractions to keep you busy for days, sometimes you may feel the need to escape the crowds and visit other places in the Veneto region. Many great destinations lie with a comfortable day trip by train from Venice’s Santa Lucia station.

Treviso, about 40 minutes by train, is sort of like Venice in miniature, with canals, and elegant townhouses, many decorated with frescoes, within the old city walls. A lively outdoor market is held on Saturday mornings, selling everything from fresh produce and chacuterie to clothing and even some designer bargains. Swish shops and great, local restaurants are another feature of Treviso. After you have wondered around head to the Piazza del Signori and have a glass of prosecco.

Padua (about 35 minutes by train from Venice) is another handsome town with a strong artistic history. Its most famous attraction is the Cappella degli Scrovegni and the rich frescoes by Giotto di Bondone. Markets are held daily in Padua, in the Piazza’s della Fruta and Erbe. In Padua, take a break in the chic Caffé Pedrocchi (Via 8 Febbraio, 15) a meeting place for the city’s intelligentsia for centuries.

Venice Carnival in February

Although one of the cooler months in the year (and boy has it been cold this last week here in Venice just like in the rest of Europe) February is one of my favourite months in Venice - and Venice Carnival has a lot to do with it.

This year this Carnival is set for the 6th through to 16th February and snow or not, the event should go ahead. There are fewer tourist in Venice in the winter months although carnival time does attract a number. Venice Carnival is a one of the best times to experience some of the local culture and simultaneously enjoy Venice and the bars, restaurants and attractions.

There is normally a special Ball which takes place in conjunction with the carnival and the ball itself is considered by many to be one of the highlights of the whole festival. You can learn more online from the official Venice Carnival website and accommodation in Venice for the event is also available online.

The Glass Museum tour was a surprise..

I have been here in Venice for a few years now and I have visited and seen most of the attractions and places that people normally like to see.

This last weekend though I decided to try out the Glass Museum as friends had told me about it and alas, I have to admit that I actually enjoyed it. Didn't expect to and I have to admit that my wife was the force behind us seeing this attraction.

The Glass Museum is said to be one of the top in Europe and with its location on the scenic Murano Island, you can use the Museum waterbus (Museo Murano waterbus) to get across to the island (this is a fun part of visiting the glass museum also).

I thought looking at glass would be slightly boring but when you see live demonstrations of glass blowing and design it is quite fascinating. The official Venice Glass museum site online has details of entrance fees and times. The guided tour is worth doing and you can also if you are really into glass, sign up for various workshops.

Carnival in Venice

Carnival in Venice is experiencing a great experience, you will not soon forget. Nowhere in the world, this Catholic event is celebrated with so much style. It is especially the masked ball (dating from the 13th century) which enjoys world fame, but also the other events of the carnival are worth watching.

During the two-week festival, the city is filled with people in the most beautiful costumes, theater groups and musicians from around the world. In the 18th century, this carnival was world famous and lasted more than a month. Napoleon Bonaparte even canceled the carnival.

It is only since the end of the second half of the 20th century that it is back and now the Carnival of Venice is one of the most famous carnivals of Europe. For more information please visit: http://www.carnivalofvenice.com/

Venice Comic Art Fest

If you're in Venice from the 12th December, you might find yourself at the ex Casinò del Lido which is hosting the very first international “Venice Comic Art Fest”. This festival focuses on the world of comic art and provides the opportunity for you to find out more about comics.There are some fantastic designs and storyboards on display and if you're lucky, you'll get to mix with some of the famous guests from the world of cartoon art.

The legendary Milo Manara will be presenting much of his work from “Quarantasei” which is written by the motorcycling champion Valentino Rossi. This work is published as a separate book and in the Rolling Stone magazine. Accompanying this will be a conference at the university of Ca’ Foscari on the genre of comics and much more. The ultimate day of the festival see the opening a separate exhibtion at the Fondazione Querini Stampalia where you'll get to see Manara exhibit up until the 14th January.

Info: Ex Casinò, Lido Venice (Venice) - Information: http://www.venicecomicartfest.it/

Romance in Venice, Italy

Romance in Venice isn't dead but it certainly doesn't come cheap. One of the most romantic cities in the world has become an overpriced hotspot for over-priced hotels and and restaurants.

However, you don't have to be a millionaire to enjoy Venice with your lover and with a bit of insider knowledeage you can still enjoy a romantic time on a budget.

Go off season - During the winter, Venice is magical city often shrouded in mist. It has less tourists and with it come lower prices both on flights, rooms and also restaurants.

Budget flights to Treviso - Treviso airport is the budget airline destination and is a short bus ride away from the city center.

Rent an apartment - Renting an apartment in Venice provides with a much cheaper alternative than a hotel. It can offer you the same privacy and as they come with their own catering facilities, you can save yourself a little extra by having candle lit dinners at home.

Get lost - Stay away from the usual tourist areas, go wandering around the city and get lost in its unique streets. Find those secret piazza's or hidden away cafe or restaurant, you'll also pay far less the further away you get from the crowds.

Find the real Venice - Dorsoduro will enable to you experience what real life in Venice is like. This lively area, particularly around the Campo Santa Margherita, is full of real venetians and is much more affordable.

Drink at Harry's Bar - Not everyone can hang back and afford the fantastic cocktails at one of the former haunts of Ernest Hemmingway. Rather than pay €14 for a signature Bellini cocktails (peach juice and prosecco sparkling wine), try the ‘spritz al bitter’ (prosecco, soda and Campari or Aperol) which is a favorite with the locals and around just €2 a glass.

Two man Gondola, The Traghetto - Taking the loved one on a gondola is not cheap and can set you back 100 euros if you go at peak time. Try taking the traghetto which are a two man gondola which ferries residents across the Grand Canal where there are no bridges.

It's a very authentic experience for as little as half a euro. - Why have dinner when you can eat lunch! Have a romantic dinner with your loved at lunchtime. Go away from the tourists and restaurants that display ‘menu turistico’ and head for the trattorie around the city (and especially in Dorsoduro). They often have very cheap set menues and you can eat well with as little as €10.

Secret Gardens of Venice

If you think about Venice, the first thing coming up in your mind is water and stone. However, the city also offers hundreds of hidden gardens waiting to be discovered by you. Although the environment is difficult, some of the gardens are the most magnificent ones in the world due to their combination of flowers, plants, rocks and water.

One of the gardens, the Giardinett Reali, which is located between St. Mark’s Square and the lagoon, is open to the public without any admission charge. You will see pebbled paths, splashes of colour, you will smell heavenly fragrances and high trees and greenery will protect you from the sun. After leaving the garden, you should discover the baroque church Santa Maria della Salute which was completed in 1689.

There is a special walking tour through Venice’s gardens that aren’t easily found by tourists. Here you will visit amongst others two convent gardens and a beautiful renaissance Venetian garden which is located on the grounds of a secluded palace and only few people know that it exists.

You can read more about the 'Secret Gardens of Venice via the book by Cristiana Moldi-Ravenna and available on Amazon. There are many luxury and affordable holiday apartments in Venice to stay in so accommodation shoul dbe no problem. Several budget airlines also fly into Venice including Ryanair.